The Kuelap Fortress from Afar
The Chachapoyas region, tucked away in Peru’s northern interior, is a treasure trove of natural and archeological attractions. The fortress of Kuelap takes pride of place, its extensive ruins rivaling those of Machu Picchu in terms of scale and mystery. Better still, the tourist hordes that descend upon Machu Picchu are nowhere to be seen at Kuelap, leaving you to explore at your leisure.
When I first went to Kuelap in May 2010*, I was eagerly eyeing every hilltop for a glimpse of the ruins.
From a distance, however, the ruins of Kuelap look no different from other rocky outcrops atop the surrounding hills. The site’s true scale only becomes apparent as you near its towering walls.
*Note: In 2011, Kuelap became one of the Peruvian sites listed on UNESCO’s World Heritage Tentative List.
The View from Kuelap's Outer Walls
The view from the top of the ridge is spectacular as you look across the Utcubamba Valley. As you reach Kuelap’s outer walls, the site’s defensive capacity becomes more than evident. From here, the rulers of the Chachapoyas culture could survey their lands and watch for approaching enemies. If an enemy was sighted, the surrounding population could retreat to the safety of the citadel.
The Vast Kuelap Fortress Complex
The immense outer walls stretch around the entire complex. The fortress runs from north to south along the ridge, reaching a length of almost 2,000 feet and a width of 360 feet.
The Walls of the Chachapoya - Warriors of the Clouds
In terms of precision and finesse, Chachapoya masonry techniques could not rival those of the Incas. Size, however, was certainly not a problem. Kuelap’s perimeter walls reach heights in excess of 60 feet, providing an imposing barrier to invading forces.
Kuelap's Defensive Entrance Points
The defensive preoccupation continues with Kuelap’s three entrance points. This is the main entrance, a lofty corridor less than 10 feet wide at its base. The narrow corridor extends upwards into the heart of the fortress, forcing potential attackers into a veritable canyon of death. The defenders could hurl rocks, spears and sling shot upon the invaders, making any siege a costly affair.
Kuelap's Symbols in Stone
As you enter the fortress, keep an eye out for snakes, human faces and otherworldly creatures carved into the cold, grey stone. These symbols are found in the narrow entranceways to Kuelap, perhaps to warn unwelcome visitors or to scare attackers.
The Heart of the Kuelap Citadel
The imposing ambience of Kuelap’s defensive perimiter dissipates completely as you enter the heart of the fortress. The citadel contains more than 400 circular buildings, but archeologists have restored only a handful.
Chachapoyan Tranquility
Kuelap’s inner walls divide the citadel into numerous levels. Trees, orchids and flowering bromeliads grow within the ruins, along with some grazing llamas, enhancing the overall air of regal tranquility.
The Templo Mayor, also known as El Tintero (The Inkwell), sits at the southern end of the fortress. Its conical shape and prominent location set it apart from Kuelap’s other buildings. Human remains discovered within the temple hint at its religious significance.
This stone structure is located in what would have been a home or storehouse. Is it a bench? Is it some kind of drainage system? According to one of the local guides, this stone channel served as a guinea pig run. A favorite food of many pre-Columbian cultures, guinea pigs were an important source of meat in a land with few domesticated animals. Peruvians still eat roasted cuy today.
The Chachapoyas region, tucked away in Peru’s northern interior, is a treasure trove of natural and archeological attractions. The fortress of Kuelap takes pride of place, its extensive ruins rivaling those of Machu Picchu in terms of scale and mystery. Better still, the tourist hordes that descend upon Machu Picchu are nowhere to be seen at Kuelap, leaving you to explore at your leisure.
When I first went to Kuelap in May 2010*, I was eagerly eyeing every hilltop for a glimpse of the ruins.
From a distance, however, the ruins of Kuelap look no different from other rocky outcrops atop the surrounding hills. The site’s true scale only becomes apparent as you near its towering walls.
*Note: In 2011, Kuelap became one of the Peruvian sites listed on UNESCO’s World Heritage Tentative List.
The View from Kuelap's Outer Walls
The view from the top of the ridge is spectacular as you look across the Utcubamba Valley. As you reach Kuelap’s outer walls, the site’s defensive capacity becomes more than evident. From here, the rulers of the Chachapoyas culture could survey their lands and watch for approaching enemies. If an enemy was sighted, the surrounding population could retreat to the safety of the citadel.
The Vast Kuelap Fortress Complex
The immense outer walls stretch around the entire complex. The fortress runs from north to south along the ridge, reaching a length of almost 2,000 feet and a width of 360 feet.
The Walls of the Chachapoya - Warriors of the Clouds
In terms of precision and finesse, Chachapoya masonry techniques could not rival those of the Incas. Size, however, was certainly not a problem. Kuelap’s perimeter walls reach heights in excess of 60 feet, providing an imposing barrier to invading forces.
Kuelap's Defensive Entrance Points
The defensive preoccupation continues with Kuelap’s three entrance points. This is the main entrance, a lofty corridor less than 10 feet wide at its base. The narrow corridor extends upwards into the heart of the fortress, forcing potential attackers into a veritable canyon of death. The defenders could hurl rocks, spears and sling shot upon the invaders, making any siege a costly affair.
Kuelap's Symbols in Stone
As you enter the fortress, keep an eye out for snakes, human faces and otherworldly creatures carved into the cold, grey stone. These symbols are found in the narrow entranceways to Kuelap, perhaps to warn unwelcome visitors or to scare attackers.
The Heart of the Kuelap Citadel
The imposing ambience of Kuelap’s defensive perimiter dissipates completely as you enter the heart of the fortress. The citadel contains more than 400 circular buildings, but archeologists have restored only a handful.
Chachapoyan Tranquility
Kuelap’s inner walls divide the citadel into numerous levels. Trees, orchids and flowering bromeliads grow within the ruins, along with some grazing llamas, enhancing the overall air of regal tranquility.
The Templo Mayor, also known as El Tintero (The Inkwell), sits at the southern end of the fortress. Its conical shape and prominent location set it apart from Kuelap’s other buildings. Human remains discovered within the temple hint at its religious significance.
This stone structure is located in what would have been a home or storehouse. Is it a bench? Is it some kind of drainage system? According to one of the local guides, this stone channel served as a guinea pig run. A favorite food of many pre-Columbian cultures, guinea pigs were an important source of meat in a land with few domesticated animals. Peruvians still eat roasted cuy today.
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