New chainsaws are designed to cut wood efficiently and effectively. The chain is designed to slice through, and actually pull the bar down into the wood, making the process relatively easy.
However, if the thin, but tough coat of chrome on the chain is damaged, it doesn't take long for the chain to become blunt and require maintenance. The main culprit that damages the chain on the chainsaw is dirty wood. If you cut wood near the ground, it is likely grit will be unavoidable, resulting in the chain becoming relatively blunt over time.
You will realise you need to sharpen you chain when you need to push the saw through the wood, rather than then saw bar being pulled down through the wood, known as self feeding, which should happen when the chain is sharp.
A second sign that your chainsaw is blunt is the type of discharge that is produced. If the chain is blunt it will produce messy dust rather than wood chips.
Finally, look at the chain. Is it shiny? If so, the chrome has probably worn away, leaving the steel underneath. It is time to sharpen the chain.
How To Sharpen A Chain on A Chainsaw.
If you are out cutting wood and the chain has become so blunt that you have to apply excessive force to cut, it is time to sharpen that chain. It is best to get back to a workshop or shed to do this properly. If you are in a hurry, try to have a spare chain ready to replace the blunt chain. This is the quickest and easiest way to carry on cutting wood.
When back at the workshop, make sure that you have a solid bench to work on, there is good lighting and you have a pair of safety gloves.
There are three angles to sharpen a chainsaw chain. A round file, held at the right angle will sharpen all three at the same time. However, it must be the right diameter. The only way to get the right diameter round file is to check your owners manual. If you don't have one, take the chainsaw to a repair shop and get advice.
For best results, remove the burs from the side and top plates and sharpen the top edge. To get a consistent angle get a file guide. Place the file guide over the chain and set the file. File with complete stokes applying pressure only on the downward stoke. That is because the file only cuts in one direction. To make the process easier, file one side of the chain first, then complete the other side.
Don't use a file that is too big or angle the file too high as it puts a back cut on the chain, as it wont sharpen properly and you will still have to put pressure on the saw to cut. However the reverse is also true, if you use a file that is too small or you have the file too low. This tends to put a hook on the chain and when you use the chainsaw initially it will bite into the wood, which can lead to dangerous situations. You will find that the chain will also go blunt quickly.
The important thing is to make sure that the upper corner has been sharpened and the chrome surface has been restored.
If you have sharpened the chain before, check the depth using a depth gauge jointing tool.
Finally, remember to always follow the chainsaw's manufactures recommendations to ensure that you keep your chainsaw chain sharp and in peak working condition.
However, if the thin, but tough coat of chrome on the chain is damaged, it doesn't take long for the chain to become blunt and require maintenance. The main culprit that damages the chain on the chainsaw is dirty wood. If you cut wood near the ground, it is likely grit will be unavoidable, resulting in the chain becoming relatively blunt over time.
You will realise you need to sharpen you chain when you need to push the saw through the wood, rather than then saw bar being pulled down through the wood, known as self feeding, which should happen when the chain is sharp.
A second sign that your chainsaw is blunt is the type of discharge that is produced. If the chain is blunt it will produce messy dust rather than wood chips.
Finally, look at the chain. Is it shiny? If so, the chrome has probably worn away, leaving the steel underneath. It is time to sharpen the chain.
How To Sharpen A Chain on A Chainsaw.
If you are out cutting wood and the chain has become so blunt that you have to apply excessive force to cut, it is time to sharpen that chain. It is best to get back to a workshop or shed to do this properly. If you are in a hurry, try to have a spare chain ready to replace the blunt chain. This is the quickest and easiest way to carry on cutting wood.
When back at the workshop, make sure that you have a solid bench to work on, there is good lighting and you have a pair of safety gloves.
There are three angles to sharpen a chainsaw chain. A round file, held at the right angle will sharpen all three at the same time. However, it must be the right diameter. The only way to get the right diameter round file is to check your owners manual. If you don't have one, take the chainsaw to a repair shop and get advice.
For best results, remove the burs from the side and top plates and sharpen the top edge. To get a consistent angle get a file guide. Place the file guide over the chain and set the file. File with complete stokes applying pressure only on the downward stoke. That is because the file only cuts in one direction. To make the process easier, file one side of the chain first, then complete the other side.
Don't use a file that is too big or angle the file too high as it puts a back cut on the chain, as it wont sharpen properly and you will still have to put pressure on the saw to cut. However the reverse is also true, if you use a file that is too small or you have the file too low. This tends to put a hook on the chain and when you use the chainsaw initially it will bite into the wood, which can lead to dangerous situations. You will find that the chain will also go blunt quickly.
The important thing is to make sure that the upper corner has been sharpened and the chrome surface has been restored.
If you have sharpened the chain before, check the depth using a depth gauge jointing tool.
Finally, remember to always follow the chainsaw's manufactures recommendations to ensure that you keep your chainsaw chain sharp and in peak working condition.
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