- 1). Plant only open-pollinated okra seed. Seed from hybrid varieties will not grow true to type and may not germinate at all. Clemson Spineless, Burgundy and Perkins Long Pod are just a few examples of open-pollinated okra varieties. Annie Oakley, Cajun Delight and Baby Bubba are popular hybrid varieties. These and any others marked on the seed packet as hybrid will not produce usable seed.
- 2). Plant only one variety. If two varieties are planted close together, they will cross-pollinate, giving you a hybrid that may or may not germinate and most certainly won't be the same as your original okra. In addition to your plants, you have to check your neighbors. The World Vegetable Center recommends an isolation distance of 500 meters (1,640 feet) from other okra plants to ensure pure seed.
- 3). Hand-pollinate and cover blossoms in tulle, if you want to grow more than one variety or if neighbors are also growing okra. The large blossoms attract bees and other pollinators. The tulle--a sheer netting often used in bridal veils--will keep them out of the blossoms you've chosen to harvest for seed after you've pollinated them. Hand-pollinating okra is simple. It is self-fertile, so just take a small paintbrush, stick it into the open blossom and swish it around a bit. Then wrap the blossom in a loose covering of tulle, gather the fabric around the blossom stem and tie it gently with a piece of twine or yarn. The okra blossoms close in just a few hours. The tulle can be removed once the blossoms close.
- 4). Mark the hand-pollinated blossoms with a bit of colored yarn around the stem so you'll remember which ones are seed and which ones are food. Leave the marked pods on the plants until they turn brown. Pick them when the pods are dry, but before they crack open. Break open the pods and shake out your treasure--next year's okra seed. Store the seed in a cool, dry, dark place.
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