If you have cracks and gaps in that drafty, old house then it's time to get caulking.
You'll be amazed at how simple it is.
To start, make sure any adjacent surfaces are clean and dry.
On previously caulked surfaces, it is critical that you remove as much of the old caulk as possible before applying new caulk.
If the old caulk is hard feeling it is probably a water based caulk and to remove it you are most likely going to use needle nosed pliers.
If the old caulk feels like rubber then it is a silicone based caulk and you will most likely need to use a razor blade to remove it.
Some tips and tricks on improving your home's energy efficiency.
1.
Buy a quick release caulk gun that releases pressure when you let off the trigger.
2.
Cut the nozzle opening slightly smaller than the bead you want.
Keep the bead between 1/16 and 3/8 inch.
3.
Using the pull method, cut the caulk tube spout at a 45º angle, then hold the gun at a 60 degree angle as you pull it along the crack.
4.
To avoid jagged caulk lines, release and re-squeeze the gun at a logical break, such as between clapboards.
5.
Carry a rag to remove buildup on the nozzle, which can mess up the bead.
6.
If you're a first-time caulker, start on a seldom seen part of the house.
By the time you get to the front, you'll be a pro.
7.
A plastic drinking straw makes a handy extension tube for caulking hard-to-reach places.
Secure your extender with duct tape.
8.
To squeeze the last bit of caulk out of a tube, put a short length of dowel or old broom handle between the caulk gun plunger and the tube.
9.
Don't smooth caulk with your finger.
Some caulk contains harmful chemicals and are hard to remove from your skin.
Get an inexpensive plastic caulk smoothing tool, or use a plastic spoon or an ice cream or frozen pop stick, any of these will do a tidier job than a finger.
10.
To get an ultra-fine, attractive finish on a bead of caulk, smooth it with an ice cube.
Use the heat from you hand to melt the cube to the bead shape you want.
Then run it over the caulk.
11.
Get the right caulk for the right job and take the time to prepare the surface.
Caulks are often labeled for their specific uses.
12.
Run masking tape along each side of the opening; the space between each strip should be as even as possible and about the size of the finished bead of caulk.
Caulk the opening, working slowly.
Remove tape when caulk is dry.
13.
Apply the first coat of paint on all the wood before you begin caulking.
The freshly painted surfaces will highlight any openings, even small nail holes.
14.
Be sure to have plenty of rags or paper towels on hand to clean up and to wipe your hands.
15.
If you are worried about mildew growth you can spray the area down with a mildew remover before applying the new caulk to be sure that no new mildew grows along the seam.
Caulks that seal bathtubs and sinks will most likely be silicone-based and contain mildew-resistant ingredients.
16.
Rubbing alcohol can be used to remove soap film in kitchens and bathrooms.
17.
With exterior applications, do not apply caulk at temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit or when rain is forecast within 24 hours.
18.
No matter what the label says, allow the caulk to dry for as long as possible before painting.
Interior latex should dry at least overnight for best results.
Exterior solvent-based and polyurethane products should cure for 7 to 10 days before painting.
This is a project anyone can master.
Take your time and follow these few simple tips and you'll be caulking like a pro.
You'll be amazed at how simple it is.
To start, make sure any adjacent surfaces are clean and dry.
On previously caulked surfaces, it is critical that you remove as much of the old caulk as possible before applying new caulk.
If the old caulk is hard feeling it is probably a water based caulk and to remove it you are most likely going to use needle nosed pliers.
If the old caulk feels like rubber then it is a silicone based caulk and you will most likely need to use a razor blade to remove it.
Some tips and tricks on improving your home's energy efficiency.
1.
Buy a quick release caulk gun that releases pressure when you let off the trigger.
2.
Cut the nozzle opening slightly smaller than the bead you want.
Keep the bead between 1/16 and 3/8 inch.
3.
Using the pull method, cut the caulk tube spout at a 45º angle, then hold the gun at a 60 degree angle as you pull it along the crack.
4.
To avoid jagged caulk lines, release and re-squeeze the gun at a logical break, such as between clapboards.
5.
Carry a rag to remove buildup on the nozzle, which can mess up the bead.
6.
If you're a first-time caulker, start on a seldom seen part of the house.
By the time you get to the front, you'll be a pro.
7.
A plastic drinking straw makes a handy extension tube for caulking hard-to-reach places.
Secure your extender with duct tape.
8.
To squeeze the last bit of caulk out of a tube, put a short length of dowel or old broom handle between the caulk gun plunger and the tube.
9.
Don't smooth caulk with your finger.
Some caulk contains harmful chemicals and are hard to remove from your skin.
Get an inexpensive plastic caulk smoothing tool, or use a plastic spoon or an ice cream or frozen pop stick, any of these will do a tidier job than a finger.
10.
To get an ultra-fine, attractive finish on a bead of caulk, smooth it with an ice cube.
Use the heat from you hand to melt the cube to the bead shape you want.
Then run it over the caulk.
11.
Get the right caulk for the right job and take the time to prepare the surface.
Caulks are often labeled for their specific uses.
12.
Run masking tape along each side of the opening; the space between each strip should be as even as possible and about the size of the finished bead of caulk.
Caulk the opening, working slowly.
Remove tape when caulk is dry.
13.
Apply the first coat of paint on all the wood before you begin caulking.
The freshly painted surfaces will highlight any openings, even small nail holes.
14.
Be sure to have plenty of rags or paper towels on hand to clean up and to wipe your hands.
15.
If you are worried about mildew growth you can spray the area down with a mildew remover before applying the new caulk to be sure that no new mildew grows along the seam.
Caulks that seal bathtubs and sinks will most likely be silicone-based and contain mildew-resistant ingredients.
16.
Rubbing alcohol can be used to remove soap film in kitchens and bathrooms.
17.
With exterior applications, do not apply caulk at temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit or when rain is forecast within 24 hours.
18.
No matter what the label says, allow the caulk to dry for as long as possible before painting.
Interior latex should dry at least overnight for best results.
Exterior solvent-based and polyurethane products should cure for 7 to 10 days before painting.
This is a project anyone can master.
Take your time and follow these few simple tips and you'll be caulking like a pro.
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