Some Common Easy-To-Fix Plumbing Issues For The Do-It-Yourselfers
Most homeowners are unaware that the majority of water heaters have a magnesium bar called an anode rod installed in their heater. It can be identified by looking at the top of the water heater for a hexagonal fitting. This rod is designed to help keep the tank from corroding by simply beating it to the punch and corroding first. However, when the bar finally corrodes and falls apart, your tank is the next target for corrosion. Believe it or not, you can increase the life of your water heater substantially by making sure that this anode rod is replaced before it disappears. A rule of thumb is to replace the rod every three to four years depending on the corrosiveness of your water. If you don't have this hexagonal fitting on the top of your water heater, make sure that the next water heater does because it can potentially double the useful life of your water heater saving you a lot of cash.
The replacement of the anode rod is fairly simple and straightforward. Turn off the cold water supply to your water heater first. Next, turn off the gas line or the circuit breaker. Using a standard garden hose attached to the drain at the bottom of the heater, remove several gallons of water. Remove the anode rod with a pipe wrench or similar tool. Sometimes a long handled tool is necessary to get enough leverage to loosen the fitting.
Purchase a comparable anode rod at your local hardware store, home center or plumbing supply house. If a bendable rod is available, consider purchasing it to make installation easier if you have little headroom to work with. Remember, the old rod will probably be only a fragment of its original length and won't give you a true idea of the room you need to install its replacement. Before installing the new anode rod, wrap the threads with Teflon tape to create a better seal. Make a note of when you made the replacement on or near the water heater (my wife recently asked me when the I replaced the air filter on our furnace €" I said it was just a few weeks ago €" actually it was seven weeks earlier €" time does have a habit of getting away from us).
Another problem that homeowners face with water heaters are occasional bumps and other strange sounds coming from their water heater. These noises are a result of steam that is being generated inside the water heater. This steam results from the flame heating accumulated junk resting on the bottom of the heater. The water lodged inside the junk becomes hot enough to create steam bubbles, which eventually rise and turn back into hot water. When these steam bubbles burst, they create those unpleasant sounds.
Unfortunately, if you have hard water, this junk in the form of scale and sediment form fairly quickly and need to be drained every few weeks. You need to put this task on the calendar (you do have a calendar?) so time doesn't slip away. Nearly all hot water heaters have a drain near the bottom of the tank. Using a standard garden hoe, drain off several gallons of water that should be loaded with the aforementioned junk. When you eventually replace the water heater, look for a model that has a device built-in that reduces the volume of sediment that builds up.
Lime buildup is common in toilet bowls. The fix is easy. First, shut off the valve that supplies water to the toilet and then flush the toilet several times until it is empty. Soak paper towels with distilled white vinegar and lay them over the lime deposits letting them soak for a few hours. After removing the towels, use a scrub brush to remove any remaining lime sediment.
For the ambitious, you can keep your house drains open by using a recipe of a cup of baking soda, a cup of regular salt and a fourth of a cup of cream of tartar powder. You only need about a quarter of a cup of this solution per drain, adding a few cups of boiling water as a chaser.
Ah, the caulking between the tub and the wall. It seems that no matter who does the job or what they use, cracks will eventually appear. Before making repairs, fill the tub with water, which will weigh it down slightly. Roll up your pants (or whatever) and apply the caulk. When you drain the tub, it moves upward slightly, compressing the caulk and eliminating the possibility of ending up with new cracks the first time you use the bathtub.
The replacement of the anode rod is fairly simple and straightforward. Turn off the cold water supply to your water heater first. Next, turn off the gas line or the circuit breaker. Using a standard garden hose attached to the drain at the bottom of the heater, remove several gallons of water. Remove the anode rod with a pipe wrench or similar tool. Sometimes a long handled tool is necessary to get enough leverage to loosen the fitting.
Purchase a comparable anode rod at your local hardware store, home center or plumbing supply house. If a bendable rod is available, consider purchasing it to make installation easier if you have little headroom to work with. Remember, the old rod will probably be only a fragment of its original length and won't give you a true idea of the room you need to install its replacement. Before installing the new anode rod, wrap the threads with Teflon tape to create a better seal. Make a note of when you made the replacement on or near the water heater (my wife recently asked me when the I replaced the air filter on our furnace €" I said it was just a few weeks ago €" actually it was seven weeks earlier €" time does have a habit of getting away from us).
Another problem that homeowners face with water heaters are occasional bumps and other strange sounds coming from their water heater. These noises are a result of steam that is being generated inside the water heater. This steam results from the flame heating accumulated junk resting on the bottom of the heater. The water lodged inside the junk becomes hot enough to create steam bubbles, which eventually rise and turn back into hot water. When these steam bubbles burst, they create those unpleasant sounds.
Unfortunately, if you have hard water, this junk in the form of scale and sediment form fairly quickly and need to be drained every few weeks. You need to put this task on the calendar (you do have a calendar?) so time doesn't slip away. Nearly all hot water heaters have a drain near the bottom of the tank. Using a standard garden hoe, drain off several gallons of water that should be loaded with the aforementioned junk. When you eventually replace the water heater, look for a model that has a device built-in that reduces the volume of sediment that builds up.
Lime buildup is common in toilet bowls. The fix is easy. First, shut off the valve that supplies water to the toilet and then flush the toilet several times until it is empty. Soak paper towels with distilled white vinegar and lay them over the lime deposits letting them soak for a few hours. After removing the towels, use a scrub brush to remove any remaining lime sediment.
For the ambitious, you can keep your house drains open by using a recipe of a cup of baking soda, a cup of regular salt and a fourth of a cup of cream of tartar powder. You only need about a quarter of a cup of this solution per drain, adding a few cups of boiling water as a chaser.
Ah, the caulking between the tub and the wall. It seems that no matter who does the job or what they use, cracks will eventually appear. Before making repairs, fill the tub with water, which will weigh it down slightly. Roll up your pants (or whatever) and apply the caulk. When you drain the tub, it moves upward slightly, compressing the caulk and eliminating the possibility of ending up with new cracks the first time you use the bathtub.
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