About Indian Costumes
- Indian Traditional Dress by jimmiehomeschoolmom
Dating to the Indus Valley Civilization of 2800 to 1800 B.C., the sari may be the oldest costume worn by women in India dating. A sari is a strip of cloth often made of cotton or silk between 12 and 27 feet long with a 1- to 3-foot elaborately decorated section called the pullu. In the south a pavada or in the east a gheya may be worn like a petticoat under the sari. A choli or ravika is a short-sleeve shirt that may be worn on the top. The choli and pavada are believed to have been introduced by the British to satisfy Victorian concepts of modesty. The traditional wedding sari is red with gold embroidery, while the traditional mourning sari is white.
The most common method of draping a sari is the nivi style. One end of the sari is tucked into the waistband of the pavada. The cloth is wrapped around the lower body once and then pleats are carefully folded and tucked into the waistband just below the naval. The loose end, or pullu, is draped over the shoulder diagonally in front of the torso, crossing the right hip and hanging down the left shoulder. There are several other methods of draping a sari that are distinctive to regional area. The Gujarati style common in northern India involves hanging the pullu down the front. The pullu can also be used to cover the head.
The sari is commonly worn by women of the Hindu faith, although Muslim and Christian women do wear them. The sari is commonly chosen to represent a "traditional" Indian costume. - Salwar kameez
Tracing its roots back to Punjab, the salwar kameez was worn by Punjabi peasant women when working in the fields. The salwar kameez is commonly worn throughout northern India and is growing in popularity through the rest of the country. A salwar is a pair of pants often cut large at the top and narrow around the ankle and held low on the hips with a drawstring or elastic band. A kameez is a long tunic with side seams called chaak, which are left open below the waistline. The cut and style of both the salwar and kameez can vary greatly depending on the region. For example, a kameez can be cut with a high modest neckline or be cut quite low, sleeve length may vary from wrist length to something resembling spaghetti straps, the hemline may hit anywhere from just past the hips to only a foot or so from the ground. The salwar kameez may be fairly plain for everyday wear or extremely lavish with delicate embroidery and beadwork.
A common accessory to the salwar kameez is the dupatta. A dupatta is similar to a shawl and worn around the head or neck. Muslim women wear the dupatta as a less stringent alternative to the chador or burka. Sikh and Hindu women wear the dupatta for situations when the head must be covered, such as in the temple or when in the presence of elders. For other women the dupatta is simply a matter of style.
While the salwar kameez is viewed by some as an exclusively Muslim costume, it has spread throughout India regardless of religious belief. One reason for this seems to be that the salwar kameez is considered "decent," unlike Western clothing, but allows women the freedom of mobility needed in school and the workforce. - Ghagra Choli with Dupatta
The ghagra choli was traditionally worn by young girls for festivals and was prominent in northern India. However, the ghagra choli is becoming much more common and the south has developed it's own variation called the pavada. The ghara or lehnga is a long skirt that traditionally would flare around the wearer with layers of cloth to create volume. Styles have changed so that now ghagras come in an a-line, fishtail or the flowing umbrella style. The southern-styled pavada is streamlined. The choli is a form-fitted shirt that can vary in length, cut, and style.
Staying close to its festival roots, the ghagra choli is a popular choice for celebrations, weddings, and ceremonies where dancing requires a more-flared skirt for movement. Contemporary brides often choose the ghagra choli because it has a modern look while still keeping to tradition. As a bridal costume the ghagra choli is traditionally red with gold.
The ghagra choli is also accessorized with the dupatta. Keeping with the formality of the celebration the dupatta are usually very detailed and match the ghagra. - Dhoti
The dhoti is the traditional men's costume in India. It is considered formal wear and is worn for government functions, weddings, festivals and even in country clubs. The dhoti is a piece of cloth 21 feet long that is wrapped around the waist creating a covering similar to a skirt. The method of wrapping and draping the dhoti is dependent on region. The dhoti is often worn with a bare chest, however in northern India the dhoti is often paired with a kurta or shirt. - Boy Wearing Lungi
The lungi is worn by both men and women, particularly in southern India. This costume is worn wrapped around the waist similar to a Western skirt. The lungi begins as a cloth approximately 3 feet wide and 5 ½ half feet long. The cloth is usually sewn to resemble a skirt or tube shape. Usually the lungi is a solid color or plaid and created from a wide variety of cloths. Cotton is common for daily wear, while silks are often worn for weddings.
The most common method of folding the lungi is for the wearer to step in like putting on a skirt. The material is held to the sides away from the body making it taut against the waist and backside. One side is then pulled to the opposite side and tucked into the waist. This is repeated on the other side. The waist is then folded down several times to adjust the appropriate tautness. If done correctly, a V is created in the front of the lungi. Variations include tying the ends into a double knot in the front or in the back depending on the region. - Kurta Pajama
Kurta pajamas range from formal wear appropriate for weddings to a comfortable garment for sleepwear. Politicians often wear white starched kurta pajama, and men often don this costume for religious ceremonies and celebrations. A kurta is a loose shirt that hangs to just above or past the knee. The sleeves hang straight, not cuffed, and are simply hemmed or decorated. The traditional kurta does not have a collar and is often open at the neck, however many variations have developed and some modern variants have a "Mandarin" collar. The pajama is a lightweight trouser held up with a drawstring. The English word "pajama" is derived from these Indian trousers.
Sari
Salwar Kameez
Ghagra Choli
Dhoti
Lungi
Kurta Pajamas
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