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Sardine Alley in Historic Downtown Rio

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Aug. 7, 2011

Rua Miguel Couto, a pedestrian-only cobblestone street in Historic Downtown Rio de Janeiro, is better known as Beco das Sardinhas, or Sardine Alley. Several restaurants which spread plastic tables and chairs on the ancient pavement account for the street's fame.

Known as frango marítimo, or chicken of the sea, the sardines are opened lengthwise and breaded before being deep fried.

The bars and restaurants on Beco das Sardinhas - Ocidental, O Rei dos Frangos Marítimos, Adega e Bar Quinta das Videiras, Bar Tesouro Esquina das Sardinhas and Quina de Ouro Rei das Sardinhas - are open long hours on weekdays and make up some one of the best spots for happy hour in Historic Downtown Rio.

Occasionally, dance and music performances are held on the alley, as part of the area's revitalization projects. You might be lucky to catch a Friday night chorinho jam for free.

Beco das Sardinhas is a full plate for the history buff. In the mid-18th century, the street was known as Rua dos Ourives (Goldsmiths' Street) as all business of that kind was concentrated on it to make it easier for the Portuguese colonizers to collect gold taxes. A later decree prohibited all goldsmithing activity - largely carried out by former slaves who had purchased their freedom - until the 19th century.

A trace of history is also present in Chapelaria Alberto (www.chapelariaalberto.com.br), a hat and men's clothing store which has been on the corner of Miguel Couto and Buenos Aires for over 100 years.

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