Draft a Gothic Bodice

• 1). Find an old shirt made from a fabric that has little to no stretch to use in your pattern-making. Cut the sleeves off the shirt at the armhole seam.
  
  
• 2). Draw a vertical line up the middle of the shirt on the front and back side, which will be the "center front" and "center back" lines.
  
  
• 3). Draw horizontal lines on the shirt where your bust, natural waist, and hips are. Make sure to measure the distance between each part of your torso before drawing.
  
  
• 4). Put the shirt on to make sure your markings are correct. Draw a dot at the apex of the bust on each side. Also, draw a new neckline, which should be a square or scooped neck. Cut along the new neckline.
  
  
• 5). Draw a new hemline on the bottom of the shirt, making a shape that starts at the hipbone level at the side seams and scoops down to a point at the center front. Cut along the new hemline.
  
  
• 6). If the shirt isn't already fitted to your shape, draw a line between the bust point and the hem. Smooth the extra fabric into the side seams and this bust line, which will create a dart. Make sure there are no wrinkles, and pin the fabric in place.
  
  
• 7). Take the shirt off and cut the new neckline. Draw over the new side seams and darts where the pins are, making new seamlines. Cut along the new side seams, but do not cut the darts. Also, cut the shirt apart at the shoulder seams and center back.
  
  
• 8). Use the shirt pieces as pattern pieces for the front and back of the bodice. Pick out a dark, romantic Gothic fabric for your bodice and pin the pattern pieces onto a single layer. Cut around each piece, 1/2 inch away from the edges so you have seam allowances.
  
  
• 9). Repeat Step 8 on the lining fabric, which should match or provide an interesting contrast to the gown fabric. Transfer the darts, if you have them, to the wrong side of both of the front pieces, using a fabric pencil.
  
  

Assemble the Bodice

• 1). Sew the darts on each of the front pieces. Iron the darts toward the side seams.
  
  
• 2). Assemble the dress and lining pieces separately. Sew the shoulder seams of the front and back pieces together, then the side seams, using the 1/2 inch seam allowances. Iron the seam allowances open.
  
  
• 3). Lay the outer bodice on top of the lining bodice, with the right sides touching. Line up all of the seams and edges. Pin the bodices together at the armholes, hems, and center backs. Pin the necklines together, but leave 3 inches open.
  
  
• 4). Sew the bodices together along the pinned edges, using the 1/2 inch seam allowance. Turn the bodice right side out through the neckline hole, then hand stitch the hole closed.
  
  
• 5). Punch eyelets or grommets onto both sides of the center back, all the way down. Lace the eyelets with lacing or cording that matches the bodice.
  
  

Create a Skirt

• 1). Measure the distance around your natural waist and add 1 inch for seam allowances. Cut a rectangle of dress fabric that is 2 1/2 inches wide and as long as the waist measurement.
  
  
• 2). Fold the seam allowances on the short edges in 1/2 inch and iron them. Fold the long edges under 1/4 inch and iron them. Fold the whole rectangle in half, so you have a waistband that is 1 inch wide and as long as your waist measurement. Iron the waistband flat.
  
  
• 3). Take your hip measurement and double it. This will be the width of the skirt piece. Measure the distance between your natural waist and the floor, then add 1 inch. This will be the length of the skirt piece. Cut a rectangle of dress fabric in this size.
  
  
• 4). Sew the rectangle together at the length, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, and leave the top 5 inches open. This will be the center back seam. Sew the seam allowances down on the open edges, so they don't move. Fold the hem of the skirt under 1/2 inch and sew it in place.
  
  
• 5). Gather the top edge of the dress and sew it to the 1/2 inch allowance on one of the long sides of the waistband. Match the center back edges. Add hook and eye closures to the open back side of the skirt.