Preparations

• Before you start sanding, you need to remove all of the hardware and doors from the cabinets with a screwdriver or drill. The hardware should be set aside in a safe place while the doors should be set up on a clean workspace or on sawhorses. Tape off the walls and any other surfaces you don't want stained, and set up drop cloths under the cabinets to avoid spills on the floor.
  
  

Sanding

• You can sand the cabinets and doors by hand, but a handheld belt sander will get the job done much faster. Of course, any corners, engraved designs and other difficult-to-reach spots will need to be sanded by hand. A sanding block or sanding sponge are ideal tools for tricky areas that can't be reached with bulky power tools. Wipe down the surfaces of the cabinets and doors with a tack cloth to remove the dust when you are finished sanding.
  
  

Staining

• With the old stain and protective topcoat removed, you can go ahead and re-stain the cabinets and doors. Dip a rag or brush into the stain, and paint or wipe it onto the cabinets and doors. Always apply stain with the grain of the wood, never against it. After you finish staining a panel or small section of the cabinets, wipe with a clean dry cloth until no more stain comes off the surface, which will help the cabinets dry faster, though you will need to layer on more coats of stain.
  
  

Protective Topcoats

• A protective topcoat is always recommended for cabinets, especially kitchen cabinets, which may be situated near sinks and stoves. The protective topcoat will protect the stain and wood from water and grease splatters. Polyurethane is a common choice, but you can use any sort of varnish, lacquer or other protective topcoat. Whichever you choose, read the label on the packaging thoroughly for specific instructions on application and drying as these vary by manufacturer.