- 1). Use your hammer and prybar to carefully remove the floor trim. You will have to re-install it later, so don't break it.
- 2). Roll out rigid foam underlayment in rows across the floor, cutting them at the ends with a razor knife and taping the rows together along their seams with duct tape.
- 3). Measure the width of the room to determine how many squares will fit. If the squares won't fit exactly, then take the amount of the space that's left, add it to the width of a full square, and divide by 2 to get the width that the starting and ending squares need to be. (Example: If the squares are 12 inches wide, and there will be 4 extra inches of space at the edge of the room, add 4 and 12 to get 16, then divide by 2 to get 8. The starting and ending rows should each be 8 inches wide.)
- 4). Make the same calculations for the length of the room.
- 5). Cut your starting row of tiles on a table saw at the width you've calculated, taking off an extra 1/4 inch to allow an ``expansion gap'' at the wall (this will allow the floorboards to move with climate changes). Lay the tiles, locking the ends together by their tongue-and-groove fittings. Cut the pieces at the perpendicular walls according to the calculations you made for the length of the room, taking off an additional 1/4 inch.
- 6). Lay subsequent rows of tiles, locking them together at the sides with the previously-laid tiles and cutting the end pieces as needed on your table saw. Work your way all the way across the room, until you get to the final row.
- 7). Cut the pieces for the final row on your table saw, at the same width as you cut the first row. Re-install the floor trim, using a trim nailer, to cover up the expansion gap and hold down the floor.
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